In 1706 a volcanic eruption destroyed Garachico, then Tenerife's main port; the town was rebuilt directly into the lava that buried it, and the result three centuries later is one of the most evocative small towns in Spain. The harbour is now a series of natural lava pools (El Caletón) that fill and empty with the tide, and the cobbled streets behind have a quiet that feels miles from the resort south. Several centuries-old churches, two convents and a 16th-century castle that survived the eruption (it sat on a high promontory) are within easy walking distance. The local artisan scene — silversmiths, ceramic potters, weavers — keeps the town economically alive. The drive in from La Orotava via Icod de los Vinos and the world's oldest dragon tree is one of the best on the island. Best for travellers who genuinely want to escape mass tourism for a few nights without sacrificing comfort.
An achingly photogenic small town surrounded by black lava and natural sea pools, with a slow rhythm and serious creative streak.
Photographers, slow travellers, art and craft lovers, escape seekers.
Boutique heritage hotels (Hotel San Roque), restored country casas, a few seafront guesthouses.
Casa Ramón for Canarian classics, El Caletón on the natural pools, Bodega El Pino for wine.
Sleep at Hotel San Roque — a 17th-century mansion with a heated pool in the central courtyard.