Tenerife's capital has long been overshadowed by its tourist coasts, but spend a day here and the appeal is clear: this is a real Spanish city with carnival energy, serious cultural institutions and almost no tourist tat. The headline architecture is Santiago Calatrava's Auditorio — a white concrete shell on the harbour that houses one of Spain's best regional orchestras. The TEA Tenerife Espacio de las Artes around the corner is one of the most ambitious modern art museums in the Canaries. The Mercado Nuestra Señora de África is a feast: fresh fish, local cheeses, mojo and gofio at honest local prices. The Carnival of Santa Cruz, held every February, is the second-biggest in the world after Rio and worth planning a trip around. Best for travellers who want a proper city break combined with their beach holiday, and anyone interested in seeing how 250,000 Tinerfeños actually live.
A working capital city with a striking modern auditorium, leafy plazas, world-class carnival and a dining scene that rewards exploration.
Urban travellers, art lovers, food explorers, carnival-goers (February).
Business hotels, a handful of design boutique stays, Airbnbs in the old streets.
Tasca el Olivo for Spanish classics, Kazan for sushi, the Mercado Nuestra Señora de África for fresh produce.
Combine Santa Cruz with Las Teresitas beach — 15 minutes by taxi for the city's best swim.